☘️ { 𝔖𝔠𝔞𝔯𝔩𝔢𝔱𝔱𝔞'𝔰 𝔏𝔬𝔲𝔫𝔤𝔢 } ☘️

🟠Credit - a card on which you can spend borrowed funds, i.e. without having your own money in your account 🟠Moreover, US credit cards often have no such thing as a positive balance - you can only spend credit funds on them and repay the loan 🟠The higher the client Credit Score, the larger the credit limits the bank gives. 🟠I would like to draw your attention to the fact that if on such a card you want to call the bank, or log in and find out the balance, then the funds actually available for spending will not be the account balance, and available credit

😎Let's talk a little about the types and levels of CC

🟠Static codes will be unknown to you when purchasing a card, however, for some bins they can be reset. Bins where this can be done are called VBV reset bins 🟠Also, there are bins that pass VBV automatically 🟠It looks like this: During the transaction, you are taken to the VBV page, similar to that for the above bins, but you are not asked for the VBV code itself 🟠At this time, the issuing bank evaluates your transaction according to its anti-fraud criteria and gives an answer to the merch whether you passed the VBV check or not. Such bins are called autovbv. 🟠Also, sometimes autovbv cards are found in banks that simply have not yet implemented protection using 3DS, in such banks the percentage of successful completion of VBV will be higher. Usually these are small banks (most often Credit Unions) 🟠If you work on clothing with US shops and come across a shop with VBV/MCSC, the easiest way is to give up on such a shop and find another one. 🟠If you are using any service where VBV is required (for example, Airbnb), or you work in the EU, you already need to look for bins with reset/autovbv that will fit into the merch of your service/shop

🟠Visa, MasterCard and Discover cards each have 16 digits in the card number and 3-digit CVV codes. Amex has 15 digits in the card number and a 4-digit CVV 🟠When working with cards, sooner or later you will encounter 3D Secure protection mechanisms 🟠For Visa cards it is called Visa Secure / Verified by Visa (VBV) 🟠MC has MasterCard Secure Code (MCSC), and Amex has SafeKey 🟠These mechanisms are designed to significantly reduce the percentage of unauthorized/fraudulent card transactions by adding an additional method of transaction confirmation that is not associated with the card itself. 🟠If you enter a piece of merchandise with an activated 3DS system, during the transaction you will be redirected to a page for entering a static code, which must be known to the holder, or a one-time code sent to the holder via SMS/e-mail.

🟠Also, I want to note that by far the safest method of checking a card is to try to block it, or call the bank. 🟠In this case, sometimes you may need to break through additional. card information (SSN (social security number)/DoB (date of birth of the holder) or anything else) 🟠A few words about the types of CC. As I said above, most often in your work you will come across Visa, MasterCard, American Express, Discover cards 🟠From my experience, the easiest way to find good Visa and MC bins, however, in practice I have also come across fat Amex bins (however, the latter has its own specifics - the chargeback is faster, which is often detrimental to drive-ins You need to understand where this will happen and where it will ruin your work). Discover cards are more likely to be exotic - but in some areas they are also used

🟠To minimize time and financial losses, I recommend checking cards after purchase and trying to get a refund if the card is dead. 🟠If you don’t trust your card checking method (let’s say you think it can kill cards), you can check the card after driving in to minimize the likelihood of it dying from a check 🟠It’s also worth remembering that checkers built into shops often spoil cards much more than your own check methods, so use them only if you are sure that the card is invalid (the algorithm is most often like this: you check the card with the shop’s checker, if the shop’s checker reports the card’s premature death, you receive a refund but if the checker says that the card is alive, then no)

🟠An alternative way to check a card for validity is to link it to some services (for example, to Google & Netflix, or to any other service where the card is linked to your personal account) 🟠This is a fairly safe check method that minimizes the risk of card death, provided that it also uses the principle of charge less validation 🟠In normal shops, a refund is provided for invalid cards - usually it takes 5-15 minutes for a check

➡️ Card checker is a service that runs cards through its merch 🟠Checkers can work in different ways: a small amount ($1-2) can be preauthorized from the card through the checker’s merch and returned back after a short period of time. 🟠This method is bad because the holder may have transaction notifications set up and a suspicious transaction may force him to block the card. 🟠Well, or he may simply check the bank statement at the wrong time (a bank statement, sometimes available in paper form, by calling the bank, or in online banking) 🟠More advanced checkers use charge less validation ($0 authorization), which goes unnoticed by the holder and gives a response from the payment system about the validity of the card

➡️ Now regarding the actual purchase of cards in shops 🟠When purchasing cards in most shops, we will see such a parameter as the validity of the database in which the card was received in the shop 🟠The shop/seller defines it this way: a certain number of cards are taken randomly and validated by a checker. 🟠Let’s say that out of 10 cards, 7 are valid – the stated validity of such a database is about 70%. 🟠I note that the actual validity may vary greatly depending on the honesty of the seller/shop, the checker used, the method of obtaining cards and how long ago the base was mined

🟠If we punch the BIN of the card from the example above (414740), we will see the following information: ⚡️TYPE: VISA ⚡️BANK: CHASE BANK USA, N.A. ⚡️RANK: CREDIT ⚡️TYPE: SIGNATURE ⚡️COUNTRY: USA 🟠The remaining digits of the card, except the last one, identify the holder’s account in the bank, and the last digit is a control digit, designed to validate the bank card number using the Luhn Algorithm

🟠Let’s take a closer look at the card number, it contains important information for work 🟠BIN (Bank Identification Number) – first 6 digits of the credit card number 🟠Each banking organization has a pool of unique numbers that are assigned to the cards they issue 🟠These numbers contain information about the payment system (Visa/MC/AmEx/Discover, etc.), issuing bank, card level (Classic/Gold/Platinum, etc. .), card type (Credit/Debit/Prepaid) 🟠The first digit of the BIN determines the Major Industry Identifier (MII) - the global payment system under which this card operates 🟠The main global payment systems that you will encounter are AmEx (the first digit of the card begins with 3), Visa (4), MasterCard (5), Discover (6) 🟠Detailed information about bins can be found on services like binlist.net, binov.net (the latter is very convenient for mass bin searches and reverse bin searches by banks, although the databases are somewhat outdated at the moment)

⚡️In our example, 4147400219040084 is the credit card number. ⚡️12/20 (12 month / 20 year) - card expiration date (Expiry/Expiration Date) ⚡️826 – card security code CVV/CVV2/CVC ⚡️Richard Lang – First And Last Name ⚡️56 Groveview Cir – Address Line 1 (first address line) ⚡️#302 - Address Line 2 (second address line). ℹ️ Please note that the street name and house number are always Line 1, and the apartment/annex/office number is Line 2. If the house is private, then Address Line 2 will not be present. ⚡️Rochester - city ⚡️14612 – Zip code (zip, analogue of our postal code) ⚡️NY (New York) – state ⚡️USA – country ⚡️661-298-0881 – telephone ⚡️richielang@aol.com – email address holder The minimum necessary information to work in most directions is CC number, Expiration Date, CVV, First/Last name, Address line 1, Zip code

💳 Let's consider the most popular and obvious option of buying a card 🟠When purchasing, you will receive cardboard in approximately this format:

4147400219040084 | 12/20 | 826 | Richard Lang | 56 Groveview Cir #302 | Rochester | 14612 | NY | United States | 661-298-0881 | richielang@aol.com 

The format of each shop/seller is different, in some places it can be customized, but the main points are identical.

🟠Where can we get cardboard? 🟠There are 3 main options - ⚡️buy in shops ⚡️ from private (or not so private) sellers ⚡️ get it yourself (from a fake site, from a botnet some hacked database or from any other place where your imagination is enough)

🟠Each of you has come across bank cards in one way or another in your life, but few have thought about how the card payment process works and what information the plastic itself and the information printed on it carry 🟠The first thing a novice carder should learn is basic information about bank cards in the context of our shadow activities 🟠In our context, CC (Credit Card) is carefully stolen data of a real (or virtual) card of a holder.

🍀 Lecture #3 — Cards. 🍀 Today we will talk a little about bank cards, the principles of their operation and the nuances of purchasing them for work and will touch on issues such as check cards, 3DS/VBV and why we can get a declaration even on "good" cards (unsuccessful transaction result).

New marketplace for discussion & selling ? anonymous poll Yes – 217 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 93% No – 16 👍 7% 👥 233 people voted so far.

For those who ask if they have been banned: No, you have not been banned. The market was apparently deleted by Telegram. Should we open a new marketplace or not ?

❔Questions answered ✅